09 Mini Cooper S No start with crank

Hello all. My name is Bobby and I am a DIY mechanic with limited experience. I just got tired of paying big money for repairs that I could have done myself. So with that being said...I have a 2009 Mini Cooper S (my sons actually) that I have been troubleshooting a no start with crank. At first the car was in the shop for a turbo leak. After $1100 to repair that, the mechanic told my son the high pressure fuel pump was bad and it would be an additional $500 to change. The car was also having hard to start and rough idling. That's when I stepped in and said I will change it after watching how simple it was using YouTube. The HPF pump was changed, as well as the fuel filter. In between the maintenance repairs we had a terrible down pour and the inside of the car was soaking wet. My son thought a mini cooper looked cool with the doors off...totally different story!!!! Since the repairs and soaking of the inside of the car, I am in my current situation. I checked all relays and fuses with a light probe. I checked continuity at the pump and I thought I found my issue and changed the pump but that didn't work. That's when I came across Scanner Danner on You Tube. I can now say, I do not get power to prime the pump with the key/ignition in the on position. If I give direct power using my Power Probe I can here the pump priming. I checked voltage while cranking the engine I see battery voltage. Also, the RPM gauge does read a spike in RPM while trying to start so the crank sensor is sensing rotation. Spark was also verified. I am getting frustrated with this and looking for any advice. Thank you in advance.

Bchez71 wrote: I checked voltage while cranking the engine I see battery voltage.

At what location was this check made? At the fuel pump?

Pole71 I backed pin the white/blue and brown wires at the fuel pump connector.

To make sure I understand....

1. The pump does NOT get power, and does NOT run for a couple seconds of prime when the key is turned to the "ON" position.
2. If you give power to the WHT/BLU wire with a power probe, the pump runs.
3. Cranking the engine, you have power on the WHT/BLU wire, and a good ground on the BRN wire but, the pump does not run.

Is this correct?

Pole71...Yes this is all correct.

When you crank the engine and have power on the WHT/BLU wire, is this measured with the connector connected?

I am curious of the voltage on BOTH wires.

With the connector connected, engine cranking,...What voltage do you read on the WHT/BLU wire? What voltage do you read on the BRN wire, while cranking?

id use atleast a test light to check the wht/blu wire. i usually use an h11 headlamp bulb to load the circuit for motors.

Pole71... I got 127.5 milivolts while cranking engine. Not sure if I did that right??? I had my ohm meter attached to the ground side of the plug and grounded to the body. Then I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery and hooked it straight up to the plug in line with ohm meter and I was getting 5.7 - 16. Does this sound right? I’m thinking I have a messed up ground somewhere

Leave the battery connected. Set your meter to Volts DC. Connect the negative test-lead to a GOOD ground.

Then, back-probe the power side of the fuel pump connector (WHT/BLU) with the positive lead of the meter. CRANK the engine and read the voltage.




Now, move the Back-Probe/positive test-lead to the GROUND side (BRN) of the fuel pump connector, leaving the negative test-lead connected to a good ground. CRANK the engine and read the voltage.

Just to be clear, make sure you are doing this test with the fuel pump connector CONNECTED to the fuel pump.

Hello Pole71. Ok I got 10.9 volts on the positive side and 3.0 on the negative. Thanks for explaining to me how to properly check it. I was using the ground on the actual pump connector. Dee da dee

3 volts on a ground wire is not good. You have a bad ground. Check the BRN wire and connections for corrosion, rust, cuts, etc.



You can use a jumper wire (or PowerProbe) to provide a temporary GOOD ground for testing purposes to confirm.

I have a similar problem. What should the voltage be on both wires when cranking and the pump connected. I have 10.8 volts on the white/blue wire but 73 millivolts on the ground wire. With the key out I checked for continuity on the ground wire, my meter beeped that there was continuity. I am at a loss. Zero fuel pressure and this is a new pump.

Were you able to fine this issue? I am having a similar issue.