2006 Hyundai Tucson 2.7 l keeps flooding

Hey once again been stumped on this vehicle automotive tech by trade journeyman 2006 2.7 l Hyundai Tucson Don't know where else to go with this. Go to start it and it just rumbles and floods like crazy plugs are all wet. Changed the MAF sensor, coolant temperature sensor spark plugs,IAC actuator, TPS , compressions good 195 to 210, change the ignition coil pack. Checked valve timing. New belt, pulled. The fuel pump relay then it runs up good briefly, attached to some pictures of the codes I pulled so yes, would appreciate your input as I am lost and where to go from here.. Thanks in advance, 😊✌️

All these codes come right back after you clear them and crank the engine?
I would verify first that you have good, strong spark for the entire cranking duration. I see you changed plugs and coils but didn't mention checking spark.
Is the coolant temp data pid accurate? I see you changed the sensor, but no mention of if it is reading correctly.
I would also take a fuel sample and check for water, diesel or 2 cycle fuel as well as check fuel pressure. It doesn't happen often but I have seen excessive fuel pressure issues.
Exhaust back pressure would have to be quite excessive, but can stop an engine from starting. I would also measure the pressure in the exhaust.
Those compression readings sound very high to me for that engine.
That's the compression you measured on all six cylinders? If you have an in cylinder pressure transducer and oscilloscope, that may go a long way to verifying mechanical timing and integrity.
You say "checked valve timing, new belt". Did you pull the covers to check the cam timing and discover it had a new timing belt, or did you install a new timing belt?
Did this happened after the "new belt"?

Hey Noah, thanks for your reply and helping out.. driving me crazy otherwise.. compression on all cylinders are 195 to 210. . installed new belt , water pump tensioner cam seals ,valve timing dead on.. Yes, got to figure a way to do fuel pressure test as there's no Schrader valve.. Yes, erased codes and they pop up right away,.. Yes, checked on all cylinders with a tester and it's sufficient,. Sorry, don't have a cylinder pressure. Transducer or oscilloscope ,I wish.. going to pull the exhaust. See if the catalytic is plugged or broken plugging up the exhaust chamber.. fuel seems to be fresh. Put injector cleaner in, cleaned up the throttle body etc.. All right. Appreciate your input. Thank you so much!👌😊✌️

All right, added some attachments on the coolant temperature sensor and a few others

 

erased codes and they pop up right away

Those are all circuit codes. Have you done any circuit integrity testing?

When is Calculated Load 59.6%? Is that  cruising or at idle? 

 

Hey Chad, thanks for your reply and help haven't managed to get it. Started cranked in the driveway. Fires up stumbles and dies and these codes keep popping up,. Never had it running. Long enough to run No power.. any suggestions on where I should go from here on on the circuit testing? Pretty limited on tools. As for the sophisticated ones, that is all right. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated. Rob 😊✌️

I think I would start with the P1507.
Make sure that the "closing" wire from Idle Speed Control Actuator to the ECM is good. An Ohm meter can help determine if the circuit is, truly, OPEN or shorted to ground. 
 

Here, is some info on P1507:
 

Here, are the engine control wiring schematics:
drive.google.com/file/d/1D2uKK5PNEuHY-Mg...g8n/view?usp=sharing

 

Holy sweet! Finally some insight on moving forward on this as I was was grasping at straws and at a standstill.. yeah my getting stinked was always staring towards that okay we'll take the proper and measurements.. let you know what I find out. Thanks a million. Cheers!👌👌😊✌️

Hey Chad, how goes it? Answer From your last question.. of which I couldn't believe I did that and how it's physically possible that it would let you do that had the connectors hooked up wrong on the IAC actuator and the TPS didn't think that was possible..
. Can anything get screwed up by doing that because it sure does run worse since I took the plenum off to check the compression, spark etc.. so when I did the circuit integrity tests on the IAC wire plug notice the colors were different.. checked with the voltmeter for opens and grounds, strange thing is I have 11.9 volts on the brown wire. Nothing on the white and 8 volts on the red and black.... I thought maximum volts on the reference signals were five volts.. yeah sorry I don't do a whole lot of this... Yeah, not sure where to go from here. All right. Thanks for all your help. I appreciate your input. Cheers!😊✌️

Hi, Zfrtech1.
Sorry for the slow response.

had the connectors hooked up wrong on the IAC actuator and the TPS   ...   Can anything get screwed up by doing that because it sure does run worse since I took the plenum off to check the compression, spark etc..

Modules are, fairly, resilient when it comes to circuit faults. I think that connecting a connector to the wrong component has a very low likely-hood of doing any permanent damage. That being said, when Voltage meets un-resisted GROUND, bad things can happen.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the TPS has:
Pin 1  - Sensor Power ----> Voltage
Pin 2  - Sensor Ground --> Unknown resistance to Ground.
Pin 3  - TPS signal -->Likely, very well protected. 

The IAC has:
Pin 1  - OPENING --->Unknown resistance to Ground.
Pin 2  - Fused Voltage from Engine Control Relay ---->Voltage
Pin 3  - CLOSING--->Unknown resistance to Ground.

Swapping connectors would:
Pin 1.  Send Voltage, intended for the TPS power, into the OPENING circuit (Ground) of the IAC. It would, also, send the OPENING Ground signal to the power side of the TPS. 

Pin 2.  Send the TPS ground to the IAC power input. It will, also, send Fused Voltage from Engine Control Relay to the TPS ground. The TPS now has the Power and Ground backwards but, that shouldn't cause any harm, other than making the TPS signal invert. However, depending on the resistance of the TPS, there is potential for a problem if the ECM grounds the CLOSING circuit. That would put Fused Voltage from Engine Control Relay up against an unknown resistance to ground. That has potential of frying the TPS and/or blowing the fuse. 

Pin 3.  Put the TPS signal on the CLOSING side of the IAC. It would, also, send the CLOSING ground to the TPS signal.

It looks like the IAC would have Power (intended for the TPS) on the OPENING, and Ground (intended for the TPS) of the power feed of the IAC. That would make the OPENING circuit run backwards, constantly. Can the Power and Ground supply for the TPS, from the ECM, handle the current of the IAC? 

I took the plenum off to check the compression

make sure that you do not have a vacuum leak. 

I have ...Nothing on the white

That is the fused Voltage from Engine Control Relay. Make sure that the fuse is not blown.