All fuses and relays out, but still have continuity between + and -

Sorry in advance if someone already asked this. I got a 1999 VW GTI VR6. I keep getting short to ground faults. So I started pulling fuses, it dropped a little. Not completely. Started pulling relays, stayed the same. Now by the same I mean, the OMHS between the + battery cable and - battery cable did NOT change.... where do I go from here... Any and or all help is greatly appreciated. I've cleaned and tightly reinstalled ALL ground points in the car. We can rule that out. CHEERS

Are you disconnecting the cables when your checking the ohms? That's very important

Another thing is you'd want to check to make sure the cable at the starter and possibly the alternator isn't rubbing against the frame or engine anywhere.



In that system, the battery positive cable goes from the battery down to the starter. From there, it branches over to the alternator. At no point is the battery cable disconnected, even if you pull the fuses and such. It likely has a fusable link but it could be that the amperage shorting everything isn't enough to blow the link.

I'd start with looking at that cable and verifying it's not rubbing on something it shouldn't.

I'd like to offer you some advice that will help others help you.

Your post isn't exactly clear about what you're testing for.
Is there a code or symptom you're trying to cure?
Some more information on the issue with the car will get you more responses.

I can't think of a time I've ever had to test for anything with an ohm meter between the battery terminals, so I am a little confused.

.

I have tried both ways. With the + on the battery as well as off the battery. No change.

Noah, so my 1 and 6 were NOT firing. All others were. So checked faults, and was getting a lot of short to ground codes. So I went to town on all the grounds. It didn't help. So I figured I had a melted wire somewhere. How would you check a short to ground fault in a wiring harness

Good thinking. If the wire is insulated it can touch whatever it wants right? With no problems. Or is this ignorant logic?

RBgonzo wrote: was getting a lot of short to ground codes

What codes, specifically, are you getting?

Disconnect your alternator wire, could be a shorted diode or a voltage regulator. Your looking for something not fused. Any light that may be "On" could give you a low resistance reading at the battery connector.

You my friend are definitely on the right track. Check this out, so if i hook the B+ cable up to the ALT, i have NO continuity. Now if i have the B+ on, and then attach the ALT to the block, my continuity come back. So i believe the ALT is making the block 12V HOT through the case somehow.... ALTs ground through the block correct? What regulates that? Or is it something that is just always connected.

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If your block is going to 12v check block ground to battery. It would have to be failing. If corrected there could be heavy current flow. A shorted alternator would be unlikely cause they usually pop but if was connected improperly for a second it could. I have had that experience. Auto store will check alternator. Be safe with batteries I almost lost a finger once with a shorted wedding ring and an eye with a exploding battery.